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FIRST LESSONS 


IMPROVED METHOD: 
in BEAUTY CULTURE. 


MANICURING g FACIAL MASSAGE 


MME. HOCKENHULL'S SYSTEM 

7 Visi a 

K 


\ ARKANSAS 



6 


give a very good Manicure without all the instruments, 
nevertheless, you will find it to your convenience to have 
them all handy. I will first outline to you the different 
preparations giving you one or more formulas for each 
preparation. 


INSTRUMENTS TO BE USED IN MANICURING. 

First, files; Second, Cuticle Scissors; Third, Nippers; 
Fourth, Nail Brush; Fifth, Two Buffers; Sixth, Emery 
Board; Seventh, Orange Wood Stick; Eighth, Cuticle 
Knife. 




Of the two files which you need for the purpose of fil- 











7 


ing and shamping the nails, the No. 3 one should be of a 
course grain and the other of a fine grain; they should be 
flexible thin files, about 4 to 6 inches long and thin enough 
to get under the nail. The file is for the purpose of shap¬ 
ing the nail, the fine grain file is used to smoothe the 
edge after shaping. You can be supplied with the best 
files at my office. 



Second: The Cuticle Scissors are used to trim the 
cuticles at the base of the nails, that if they need trim¬ 
ming you will find that the cuticles do not need to be 
trimmed at all times. 

Illustration No. 6—Care must be taken in selecting 
scissors as the work of cutting the cuticle is a delicate 
operation, if well done. These scissors must have a very 
fine point, more so than any other scissors, and do not 
use them for any other purpose than cutting the cuticles. 



Third: Nippers, which are shown in illustration No. 
2, should be of good steel and best quality and are the 








8 


first used in giving a Manicure. They are used to cut the 
nails down to the required length if the nails are very long. 
We also carry the best of nippers. 

Fourth: The Nail Brush is used to wash the nails and 
hands and can be purchased at the main office. 



BUFFER, 

Fifth: Two Buffers you should have to give a good 
Manicure; one should be a large chamois buffer about 6 
inches long, and the other should be soft and pliable; the 
largest one soft and thick. We also carry a large line 
of buffers. 




9 



Sixth: Emery Boards are used for smoothing the 
edges of the nails after filing and they can be purchased 
at the main office. 



Seventh: The Orange Wood Stick is used for loosening 
and shaping the cuticle and cleaning underneath the nails. 





THE CUTICLE KNIFE 


Eigthth: The Cuticle Knife should have a very short 
blade. This knife is used for loosening the cuticle and re¬ 
moving the hangnails. We also carry the very best 
grade. 










11 


THE PREPARATIONS TO BE USED IN GIVING A 
MANICURE. 

First: Decolorizing or Cleansing Liquid. 

Second: Manicure or Polish Powder. 

Third : Nail Taint. 

The three preparations you can prepare yourself if you 
prefer to make them rather than purchase them already 
made, this you con easily do. 

Here are two formulas that will make Decolorizing or 
Cleansing Liquid: 

(1) Oxalic acid, 4 drams; orange flower water, three 
ounces, mix; label, Decolorizing Fluid (Poison). 

(2) Peroxide of hydrogen, 4 ounces; lemon juice, 2 
ounces; ammonia, 2 ounces, mix; label, Decolorizing 
Fluid (Poison). 

You will find borax a fine cleansing liquid, one part 
borax with enough water to dissolve, used with medicated 
cotton and Orange Wood Stick. 

The following will make a Manicure or Polishing Pow¬ 
der: 

Two ounces Canni No. 40, 8 grains; Powdered French 
chalk, 2 1-2 drams; perfume, 40 drops, mix; label Mani¬ 
curing Powder. 

The following will make Nail Salve or Tench: 

Canni No. 40, 30 grains; Lenonine, 2 drams; Oil of 
Lintise, 1 ounce; Simple Curate, 2 drams, mix; label, 
Nail Tench. 

You should be fitted up with a Manicure table, nap¬ 
kin or towels, small pillow, finger bowl, powder dish and 
small sponge. 

The Manicuring table should be a small one, with a 
division underneath the table in order that the feet of the 
operator does not come in contact with those of the cus¬ 
tomer, and should contain a good size drawer for keeping 
every article. 

The pillow should have a nice white linen cloth, and 
upon the table, a small pillow with white slip on which 
the customer can rest the elbow, while the hands are being 
Manicured and above all things let cleanliness be your 
motto. A finger bowl should be provided to soak the ends 
of the fingers in. The large bov/1 is to contain warm suds, 
the small bowl is to contain clear water which is used to 


12 


rinse the hands. A powder dish is used to hold the mani¬ 
cure Powder. 


LESSON 3. 

Preparing yourself for the first work, you should first 
perform your first Manicuring on your relatives or 
friends, by so doing you will be more able to meet a 
stranger. After you have been practicing, you will then 
have nothing to fear. On meeting your customers you 
must greet them pleasantly and ask if they desire a Mani¬ 
cure. Let them know that the hour is open, and after re¬ 
moving the outer garment, they can then be seated at the 
table. You should not lack self-confidence. And if you 
are careful and painstaking you will make no serious 
error. 

First, see that yourself is in readiness. You should 
thoroughly wash your hands, put on a clean apron, fill 
the largest bowl with perfumed suds and seat yourself 
opposite your customer, with a clean towel on your lap 
and one on the table to catch the powder and trimmings, 
which may fall. See that your customer has a towel 
wrapped around their arms for protection of the sleeve, 
remove rings from their fingers and have all instruments 
handy, so that you will not have to be getting up and down 
for anything. You are now ready to proceed. Ask your 
customer what shape nail they prefer, pointed or curved 
or oval, and file accordingly. The most perfect cut nails 
are the ones whose edges are curved to imitate the curve 
or half-moon of the nails. What ever curve you give the 



DIFFERENT CURVES. 

first, all the others must be the same, nothing looks worse 
than various curving on the same hand. When you find 
















13 


a nai. badly torn or split or cut off to the quick, then it is 
best to leave it to grow out, explaining the matter to your 
customer and let it grow out rather than to cut all the 
others to match it. Slightly shape it and let it grow out. 
Here you find the different styles of shaping the nails. 

CUTTING THE NAILS. 

Begin the actual Manicure on thumb of the left hand 
by cutting the nails down with the nippers or scissors to 
the inquired length; to file all nails that do not need to 
be cut before shaping and filing in such cases, of course, 
you do not use the nippers; the proper length should not 
extend more than one sixteenth of an inch beyond the 
finger tip, when the Manicure is completed. In case they 
are much longer than this when you start to give the 
Manicure, you should cut them down with the nippers, 
leaving them long enough to file and shape down to the 
proper length, you must use your own judgment. 

In short by cutting to a convenient length, we mean 
that you do not cut the nail too short to permit it to be 
* curved or shaped to the proper length by Tiling. The nip¬ 
pers are shaped and constructed so that you can get at 
the corners of the nails with ease. And when cutting 
the nails, hold the nippers with the curves of the blade 
out as shown in Illustration No. 2. Cut down ah the nails 
of the left hand in this manner, provided the length war¬ 
rants it. You are. then ready for filing. 



LESSON 4—FILING THE NAILS. 

In filing the nails, hold it in between the first finger 





14 


and the thumb in which the right side of the nail is being 
filed. You will note in Illustration No. 3, that the file, if 
held with the fore-finger of the hand, above the tip of the 
first finger being directly on the top of the file and the 
thumb beneath the file. You may begin filing at the side 
of the nail and file to the center of the nail; you may note 
that the file will cut only in one direction, so it is unneces¬ 
sary to file back and forth, always draw the file in the 
direction that it cuts. 

When this side of the nail is sufficiently filed, then 
file the opposite side, always drawing the file from the 
side of the nail to the center of the nail as in Illustration 
No. 4. Whenever you file backwards it gives the finger 
an unpleasant sensation. In filing this side of the nail 
the file is held with the tip of the fore-fipger above it 
and the thumb below it. 

When you have both sides of the nail filed down suf¬ 
ficiently, then shape it round at the center with a few 
strokes of the file. Now after the fingers and thumb of 
the left hand have been filed, place them in the finger > 

bowl of warm soap suds, by allowing them to soak until 
the nails of the right hand have been cut and filed. Cut 
and file the fingers of the right hand the same as you did 
those on the left, bear in mind everything mentioned is 
the same. When you have cut and filed the nails of the 
right hand, take the left from the bowl of suds, wipe it 
dry and prepare to trim the cuticles. 



soon as the left hand has been taken out; you are now 
ready to shape the cuticle of the left hand. 



15 



LESSON 5—SHAPING AND TRIMMING THE 
CUTICLES. 

One important thing you must remember is, that you 
must never cut the cuticles unless necessary, and you 
should not practice this by no means; the oftener you cut 
the cuticles the more calloused it becomes and it is harder 
to train back and healthy looking. Many Manicurist cut 
the cuticles whether they are required or not, but take my 
instructions—such a Manicurist cannot hold her trade 
and we, therefore, caution you to be careful in this re¬ 
gard. 



USING THE ORANGE WOOD STICK 


The Orange Wood Stick is used in shaping the cuti¬ 
cle and training it back, and this should never be neglect¬ 
ed. In shaping and trimming back the cuticles, take the 
Orange Wood Stick in the right hand and dip it in the 






16 


Decolorizing Fluid, holding the finger in the left hand to 
be treated, press gently with the Orange Wood Stick upon 
the cuticle, at the same time pushing it gently down and 
around the half moon until the edges of the cuticle are 
even. Do not use the pointed end of the stick, as that is 
used for cleaning underneath the nails; always use the 
dull end of the stick. Treat all of the fingers of the left 
hand in this manner. 

You should again dip the Orange Wood Stick in the 
Decolorizing Fluid (using the pointed end this time ) and 
then into the Punic Stone and gently put the stick under 
the nail back and forth until the under surface of the 
nail and the tissues next to it are perfectly clean. Shape 
the cuticles and clean the nail of each finger of the left 
hand. 

In cleaning under the nails it is well to twist a little 
of absorbant cotton at the end of the Orange Wood Stick 
before dipping it into the Decolorizing Fluid. 

LESSON 6—WORKING OUT THE CUTICLES. 

If the cuticles on the fingers have grown out very 
much and are ragged, and are needing trimming, then in¬ 
stead of pressing the cuticles directly back with the 
Orange Wood Stick, push the cuticule back and at the 
same time work the stick gently underneath the cuticle; 
loosing it from the nails; be careful not to hurt the cus¬ 
tomer or mutilate the surface of the nail, After you have 
worked the cuticle free from the nail; you are then ready 
to trim. You must cut only with the fine point of the 
scissors and do not cut deeper than the first layer of 
the skin. You may now take your cuticle scissors be¬ 
tween the thumb and second finger of the right hand and 
begin trimming at one side and work around the nail; 
be careful not to trim them far enough to make the cuti¬ 
cle bleed, and hold the scissors in a position as to trim un¬ 
derneath and not at the outer edge of the cuticle. You 
may begin trimming at the right side of the finger nail 
and cut the right edges entirely round; be careful to hold 
the scissors in the same position all the time; very often 
errors are made by trimming one side of the cuticles and 
then changing the position of the scissors and then trim¬ 
ming the other side. You must trim the other part of the 
cuticles as well as the top to avoid hang nails. Then 


17 


you may also use the regular cuticle scissors to remove 
the callous from the side of the end of the fingers. When 
shaping or tramming, be sure that you remove all hang¬ 
nails. After the nails have been Manicured a few times, 
hang-nails will cease to appear. In cutting the hang-nails, 
loosen them with the cuticle knife, holding the knife at a 
s.ight angle and cut them close to the roots, using the 
cuticle knife or the cuticle scissors. If the hang-nails are 
partly cut off they will continue to grow and become Very 
bothersome and unpleasant for the customer. 

No. 7—-ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The cuticle knife is also used in removing scales from 
the surface and cuticle edges of the nails. You must use 
great care in operation so as to not to puncture the new 
nail or slit the cuticle. The knife should be held in a ro¬ 
tary motion and all scales removed from the surface; be 
careful not to scrape the nails or injure the enamel. 



LESSON 7—POLISHING THE NAILS AFTER 
TRIMMING. 


After all the cuticles of the left hand have been re¬ 
moved, you may then dip your fingers into the Tinting 
Salve and apply to the nail of the hand you are Manicur¬ 
ing, one at a time, until all are treated, then take the cha¬ 
mois Polisher which should always be kept in the powder 
dish and polish each nail well. In polishing, make long 
quick back and forth strokes, bearing on the polisher light¬ 
ly When you have polished all the nails in this manner, 
put the hand into the bowl of suds and wash well, scrub¬ 
bing the nails gently with the nail brush, then you may 



18 


take your sponge from the small bowl of clear water and. 
sponge the water gently over the hand until dry. You 
may use next your small polisher, which you must keep 
clear of salve and powder and polish the nails carefully. 
In polishing, be careful not to irritate or heat the nails, as 
the friction of the polisher soon warms or burns the nai 1 , 
causing a very disagreeable sensation; do not rub too 
vigorously and not too long on one nail. This done, next 
take the Florida water and rub it gently over the hand, 
and it adds a nice finishing touch to the work. 

Now you may take the right hand from the bowl of 
suds, wipe dry and clean, loosen and trim the cuticle, as 
was done with the left hand and polish with the salve and 
powder in the same way exactly. After polishing the 
fingers of the right hand, wash that hand also in the bowl 
of suds, using the nail brush. Then rinse the hands with 
the sponge from the smajl bowl and dry the hands as in 
the case of the left hand exactly; polish with the small 
polisher and then add the Florida water. 



The Emery Board is always used last to smooth the 
edges of the nails. The Emery Board removes the ragged 
edges caused by filing and gives the nail the finishing 
touch. After the file has been used, rough edges always 
appear on the nails and the Emery Board is the only thing 
that would smooth it properly. 



19 


PALM POLISHING. 



You will find that polishing with the palm of the hands 
gives a more finishing and lasting touch; you will find this 
a good suggestion. But only do so after finishing with 
the Buffers. 


LESSON EIGHT. 

If you should happen to draw blood by using the cuti¬ 
cle knife, scissors or Orange Wood Stick, you can easily 
stop this flow by applying Tincutre of Iron or Peroxide of 
Hydrogen. These, you should always keep in reach while 
Manicuring. Tincture of Iron and Peroxide of Hydrogen 
are disinfectants. Always apply with medicated cotton. 

While Manicuring the nails, if there be any stain upon 
the fingers, nails or hands, you can easily remove them 
by taking your Orange Wood Stick, wrapping a little cot¬ 
ton around it, dipping it into the Decolorizing Fluid, ap¬ 
ply it to the stains; always do this after shaping or trim¬ 
ming the cuticles. 

CARE OF TOOLES AND INSTRUMENTS. 

Extreme care must be taken at all times in keeping 
the instruments and tooles well sterilized, for in using 
them on a customer’s nails that are diseased, they will 
easily convey the disease to any other customer. You can 
properly sterilize your instruments by dipping them into 
a 60 per cent solution of carbolic acid. You may wash 
your instruments in soap sud water in which a few drops 




20 


of carbolic acid has been added. The same attention 
should be given the Orange Wood Stick. Always be care¬ 
ful to wipe the Orange Wood Stick off before dipping it in 
the Bleach wnen cleaning the nails. Do your work well. 
I am sure you have always heard the saying: “Anything 
that is worth doing at all, is worth doing we ! l.” So it is 
in this particular, whatever your hands find to do, do it 
well. 

Remember you must not have any more to say to your 
customers than is necessary. You must be polite; that of 
itself will make business for you. Do not converse with 
your customer while engaged, it will cause you to forget 
what you have done; and many times make you appear 
very awkward as a business person in their estimation. 
When you will have finished your Manicure, assist your 
customer with their outer garments. Be pleasant and 
agreeable, without being too familiar. Attend strictly to 
business, and you will succeed. 

The prices for Manicuring are from 25c to $1.00. You 
may never charge a lady as much as you do gentlemen; 
the latter pay more because their nails are more difficult 
to Manicure. Usually ladies pay 50c. Then too, its only 
the time its takes to give a good Manicure. You ought to 
be able to give one in 35 to 40,minutes. • In case you 
treat other afflictions of the hand, use your own judg¬ 
ment as to what it is worth; consequently you should be 
able to earn a great deal of money at this trade alone. 

MASSAGING THE MANDS. 




Sometimes you may be asked to give a Hand Massage. 
This of course is very simple. In preparing the hand for 


* 21 ' 


:x Massage: First, after the cuHtomer has been seated, put 
a towel around the arm, just an you did in Manicuring, to 
1 reveal, .'toiling the sleeves. Have you ■ glass bowl of war ,n, 
a<)i l wat( r, which a litile A rnond meal has been sprink ed. 
You may use a sponge in washing the hands. Then 
ai.. j' m.; hands have been thoroughly washed, rinse in 
<■ lour water of which f „ <.,'ops 01 toilet water has be.u 
sprinkled; dry with a soft iov/cJ, then rub in a iit'Jo Cod 
urcam. The Allowin',: 

Almond Oil, i ounce;;; White Wac, 2 ounces; Sper¬ 
maceti, 2 ounces; Cocoanut Oil, 2 ounces; 0 yccrin J 
ou rates. 

Put these; materia’:; Iri'o a double bo'Tr and when 
well heated remove and stir with shyer fork, pour imo 
ja s before gelling cool, tho . who - (.old, it i:s ready for 
use. Then you m ,/ r; . ", quantity of this ere*!, i upon the 
h, nd; holding he custor cr’s hand v Ah your hand, with 
the hails of yo jr thumb o the o ': of the hand being 
Massaged. Begin - irr at tho fi r, ick’e of .be finr^rs, 
work back on the hand to ;.hc r :l, with t he In! of the 
thumb, rubb'ng fr a ih ml ' II ' f h ». d to the sides 
You may notice the balls of the thumbs travel cross ways 
over the veins. After a few of these treat o rb ■ the 
large veins of the* ha ds v/T vanirh * r*' / r t *oV person's 
hand with I hi;; movement over 1"> cr 20 minutes. 

To Massage the joints, take the customer’s fingers be¬ 
tween your thumb and first finger using the same cream, 
rubbing alternately, the iburno moving downward when 
the first finger on the other side of the joint Is moving up¬ 
wards, vice versa. Af c * the M . ./•/; has b. n comp et¬ 
ed, bathe the hand in luke warm water in which a littl; 
Almond Meal has been sprinkled; rinse in a !itt ; e per¬ 
fumed water; dry with soft b rnn towel. The charges for 
Hand Massage is 2be, 

CARE OF THE HANDS. 

Washing the hands r ; reng elAHe soaps tv ' arc so 
commonly used in our homes, should be avoided. You 
should use some kind of Medicated soap and hands should 
be rinsed off in clem* v/ . / r ad a file je ly rn bed into 
the hands Immediately would do 1 
and rough hands. An e•'< P'' remedy for Chapped 
Hands is a mixture of Sub-Nitrate of Bismuth, two 


drams with double the quantity of Cocoanut Oil, this ap¬ 
plied to the part will effect a rapid cure. 

Camphor Ice is very useful and effective for the same 
purpose. This is prepared as follows: Melt slowly an 
ounce of Camphor and one ounce of fresh Mutton Tallow, 
stir well, this may be applied twice or three times a day. 
Put 6 or 7 drops of Glycerine into the water before wash¬ 
ing the hands or drop 3 or 4 drops in the palm of the hand 
after washing off the soap and dirt, rub well over the hand 
and wrist, dry thoroughly. This will make the hands 
soft, white and smoothe. 

This finshes Manicuring and Facial Massages. The 
next lesson that will come is Hair Dressing, Hair and 
Scalp treatments. You are going to be very much pleased 
with the lessons in Hair Dressing, which you have not 
yet received. The next booklet takes up the study of 
Bleaching, Dying, etc. You will find these studies very 
clearly explained. Be sure and master this branch of 
work, because it is one of the most profitable branches. 
You will have lots of this work to do and will get big prices 
for it. 


Facial Massage. 


LESSON ONE. 

Oar lessons in Facial Massage, comprising T*vo Divisions. 
The 1st. Division will deal onlv with the nature and cause of 
W • inkles,Lines and Creases and giving Formulas for various 
Creams, etc. 

The 2nd. Division on Facial Massage—It contains many 
splendid Illustrations. Simply rubbing the face or working 
Cold Cream into it, is not Massaging. The pressure and 
motions must be applied, scientifically, in order to produce 
good results and not bad results. 

THE POWER OF HABIT, 

One of the most potent factors of life is habit. Habit not 
only governs our daily appetite,creates action and influences 
our daily work but is most influences our every act, but is 
most essential in the development of our physical self Ir¬ 
is largely responsible for the perfect or imperfect form 
of our Faces and the general appearance of our bodies. The 
Habit of regular exercise developes the body, Creates 
strength and makes athletics. The Habit of idleness and inac¬ 
tion \ re vents the proper physical development. 

The child that is kept indoors and not allowed the required' 
action will remain small, puny and stunted. 

Nature demands that all parts of the human body be 
exercised systematically and no part to an excess and any vi¬ 
olation to this demand mus.t be repaid with weak bodies or 
abnormal organs -Just as habit creates and forms the human 
body in general making it robust or puny so does habit leave 
its effects written in visible characters. 

Frowning, Squinting and Scowling—Every crease and 
wrinkle seen on the face of a man or woman under 50 years 
of age are the result of facial habits and not the effects of 
age.Such as Laugh, Frowns,Scowls. Squint and all other such 
action brings into action the facial muscles. 



24 


ITie habit of Frowning when provoked or when thinking 
deeply, causes the wrinkles on the fur‘head and between the 
the brows. Laughing and Squinting brings th° crow-feet, at 
the. corners of the eyes and like manner all creases and 
wrinkles ran be traced to some facal expression or habit. 
No one will assume, of course, that they should not laugh 
frown or act naturally in order to prevent, these things but 
they sliouid know and understand that with proper care no 
bad results need follow 

THE MUSCLES AS A FACTOR. 

Here is another important fact that all persons interested 
in keeping the face smooth,the complexion clear and them¬ 
selves wholly attractive and beautiful, should understand 
that creases, lines and wrinkles are not merely surface faults 
belonging to the skin, but the cause lies deeper. There are 
conditions existing in the hundred pairs of muscles that, reach 
and control the face. The wrinkled skin is but an indieation 
that the underline muscles have been impaired or neglected 
Muscles which control and give expression to the face are 
wonderful in their construction . Muscles that are used too 
little become solid, stiff and elastic and soon shrink from 
their proper length; thus making it impossible for them to 
respond when called upon. 

The true cause then for creases,wrinkles and other abnor 
mal appearances of the skin, of the face or other parts of the 
body, is the fact that certain muscles are too long and the 
opposing ones too short, this condition being brought about 
by some constant facial habit.Long muscles allow the skin to 
hsng loosely on the face while other muscles very close to 
them perhaps being short and having lost their elasity, draw 
the skin inward and it is very easy to see that wrinkles must 
ensue. 


SCIENTIFIC MANIPULATION. 

It has been proven beyond question or doubt that the on¬ 
ly way to effect external muscles, causing them to resume 
normal positions and to acquire their original powers is by 
Scientific Manipulation. 

The professional Massagist now has a wonderful con¬ 
trol over the Muscles of the face, neck, hands and arms. 
Proper Massage will renew the life of sluggist muscles, cause 
them to respond like steal springs, cause the blood t,o flow 



FINGEli MANIPULATION 

freely. The skin .becomes smooth like satin, the hollow 
places are filled, the defects gradually disappear and the face 
becomes again filled with vigor and energy., 

LESSON 2.—FACIAL MASSAGE. 

Facial Massage is by no means a very difficult department 
of Beauty Culture to master, but is one of the very important 
requisites which comprise the education of the Beauty Cultur- 
ist. Facial Massage has become a necessity to every well 
grown man or woman and its patrons are increasing rapidly 
every day. A Beauty Parlor which.does not give Facial Mas¬ 
sage is rare indeed and the Beauty Culturist who is not, com¬ 
petent to do this work has a very incomplete knowledge of 
her profession. 

SCIENTIFIC MASSAGE. 

Nothing is so great a restorer of beauty as a properly 
given Faeial Massage and on the other hand a haphazard mas- 




sage ean bring about considerable harm. It is n lamentable 
fact that vary few Beauty Culturist in propoiion to the num¬ 
bers it) the profession ran properly give a Facial Massage or 
at least to properly give it Their knowledge of the work 
seems only to extend in the rubbing in of creams and rubbing 
it out. with tto conception of the science of remending Petnp 
les, Blackheads, flabbiness and wrinkles and to -ay the least, 
their work does absolutely no good and is an injustice to 
their patrons. In these lessons on Facial massage, we aim to 
instrucut. you iti the seienee of this work, to enable yon to 
actualy bring about quick and lasting improvements upon the. 
face and thus make your work a benifit to vour patrons jmd a 
Money maker for your self. As in the stud tig of .Mannicut ing. 
practice is absolutely ess 11 tun 1 to the making of good massa¬ 
ges and we again urge you to follow these lessons closely and 
pratice with reasonable diligence. 

POINTS TO REMEMBER. 

The Massag'T who wishes to be entirely successful and to 
to always have her trade speak of her in the highest terms, 
should always be perfectly ciean in every way, as to Clothing, 
Hands, Face, Teeth, Nails and Hair. She should always take 
her mornings bath and keep herself perfectly fresh and at¬ 
tractive in appearance at all times. 'I'lie hands should be kept 
soft and smoothe ami Hie Nails always Manicured. The Mas- 
sagist should preferable ware a white shirt waist, with a neat 
tie, collar and a dainty white apron to lend the impression of 
absolute friendliness, the Hair should be dressed neatly and 
she should always maintain a cheerful and agreeable manner; 
using tact and diplomacy and avoiding gossip, and always 
keep appointments to the rniuute. She should always wash 
her hands and sterilize them before giving a treatment. Face 
powder should always be applied with a soft cloth or medica¬ 
ted cotton and a fresh piece should be used after each patron. 
The powder should He kept in a perforated fop bottle and 
sprinkled on the cloth. The face cream should be taken out of 
the jar with a small paper cutter. The fingers should never be 
put into the jar, because that is decidedly unsanitary. Before 
tho patron leave the chair, after a Facial Massage, all powder 
should be dusted off the Face and the Eye brows carefully 
brushed* 

The Operator when called out to do work should take 
only such necessary things as the Vibrator, the necessary 
(’reams, Lotion, Face powder, a head band, soft Turkish 


27 


towels, etc, a towel can be used for a head band 

Hie foil owing equipments is sufficient for a Facial rnas- 
room. A Morris chair or a regular Facial Massage chair, 
a small table to be used for disenfectiug and other materials, 
the vibrator, tin* porceluim bucket to hold soiled Facial cloths 
and towels The room should have hot and cold running 
water. It is not absolutely necessary however as shown lat¬ 
ter. The room should be entirely free of Carpet, lings, 
Pictures, etc. Oil cloth or limdium is sufficient, fur the floor, 
unless if is a hard wood floor ctud then if needs nothing on it 



('reams are an absolute necessity in treating the Facial 
skin and you partly know but which some really deny Then 
again these creams must contain Oil and pats, just th* very 
name cream suggest, for this reason avoid ail socalled creams 
which are advertised as not containing fats and oils. Smdi 
creams are naturally worthless. The Oils in cream produces 
a soft, pliable and smooth skin ; it serves a protection for 
the skin against the dirt particles which <-xi>t everywhere. It 
increases weight, plumptness by its nnri hing qualities and 
assist in the removal of dirt, sebac’ous matter and fattie a«*- 
ids. A good cream is really absorbed by the skin and builds 
up the Tissures and crates a healthy color. 

VARIOUS SKIN CONDITIONS. 

4 

The condition of the skin in the Face, of course differs. 
Some people have dry skin ami freckles, others have a oily 
skin and are troubled with Black heads. The good Massagist 
discriminates between these different, conditions and tre ats 


28 


her customers accordingly. G^od judgment is wnnh a great 
deal in tliis respect, for an instant in case of the skin which 
is dry aud also freekled, the < ream must he appli< d which 
contains oil to nourish the skm to over e< me the drv es r s amt 
a penitraiting remedy must aho be applied which will lend to 
reduce the accumulation of coloring matter ui der.il e n m us 
layers, which of course, results of freckles. In eese ol il e 
skin being afflicted, a cream containing sufficient oil to pene¬ 
trate must b« applied and also as >trigent.- We latter.outline 
the different creams and teach you how to make them. 

It seems to be a popular impression that creams contain¬ 
ing OILS AND FATS, causes the hair to grow upon th<e thee; 
Dismiss this from your mind, as it absolutely has no founda 
tion , whatever. If there was such a cream it would he sph n 
did to apply ro some heads, but unfortunately the cmtms. 
which would cause hair to grow has not yet been discovered, 

MANUFACTURE OF CREAMS. 

First, it is indeed necessary to buy good fresh goods and 
the work of one making their own creams, is indeed faeinat- 
ing, while at times rather expensive : if you prefer you can 
purchase the different necessary creams and lotion, hut. many 
women prefer to make their own and thus be sure that they 
are .absolutely what they desire. Here 5011 will find one or 
more formulas for making face creams which are absolutely 
reliable ami which can be easily made if care is taken, A 
good grade of Almond Oil is the basis of neariv every good 
cream and care should be taken to secure a good grade. All 
good druggist do not keep a first class grade of Almond Oil 
aud you must be particular. A pure Almond Oil should be 
of a delicate straw color absolutely clear and without a strong 
odor. 

The cream should be made in small quantities and should 
be kept in a cool place with covered over jars on tight always. 
In purchasing Lauoline, it is best to put it into pound pack¬ 
ages, after it lias been put through the refining process. It 
should have a gticky appearance and should possess a mild 
and very distinct sc^nt. the best ones come in small round 
cakes are nearly white and not a distinct veUow. The most 
desirable spermaceti should be bought in long white glistening 
cakes and Cocoannt oil, if the best, has the appealaiice of a 
ball of snow pudding and has a strong odor. 

Before beginning to make any of the following creams, 
it is almost necessary to purchase an enamel water boiler 


29 


and one or two. bmg granite spoons for stirring purposes. Al¬ 
ways be sure to thoroughly melt the Wax, speirnaeetiand oth¬ 
er ingredients, as instructed, before adding the oils of roses. 
All the mixture should be beaten and stirred cmitmously un¬ 
til they are cool. 

LESSON 4,—MESSAGE CREAMS. 

The following foimiulas and instructions for the manu¬ 
facture of massage cream. (No. 1) almond oil, 8 oz; white 
wax 2 oz; spermaceti 2 oz; "ocoanut oil; 2 oz lanoline; 1 oz. 
Put these materials into a double boiler, and when well heat¬ 
ed remove and stir until nearly cold and then add 12 drops of 
oil of rose and then stir until cold. 

LESSON 5—FACE POWDER FOMULAS, 

The following formulas are for manufacturing a face 
powder ( \* < 1 ) sifted starch 1 oz, rose pink 1-2 dram, es 
sence of .levinin 10 drops, Attar of roses 3 drops; for bru- 
nett, vel'.iw orchre 1-2 oz, for flesh color carmine 5 grains ; 
mix a: d si t through linen bolting cloth three or four times, 
hen once n.rough 100 Mesh silk bolting cloth. 

LESSON 6 —BLACKHEADS. 

Peso vein dissolved in alcohol 5 grains; lard—pure,100 
grains; juM enough alcohol to dissolve should be used diop 
by drop. 

Pei xm ally—this ends first division—if there he nny oth¬ 
er forum as you wish,'see me or write. 

LESSON 7—SCIENTIFIC FACIAL MASSAGE 

Preparing the customer—When your patron conies for a 
massage make them as comfortable as possible. In case you 
have not secured a regular massage stand, which, of course, 
is the most desirable for giving a facial massage, use some 
large, easy chair which can he tilted back, throwing die head 
up and making it easy foy the patient, as well as for \our¬ 
self. First pin th&hair back closely, remove the collar, etc. ’ 
tuck a towel in about the heck and cover the patron with a 
large apron, such as is used by barbers; make the patiou as 


30 : 


comfortable as possible in order that they may relax all of 
the muscles and rest quietly. 

FACE MASSAGE PRACTICE. PRICES. 

First ask your customers whether they desire the finger 
massaged only or not the finger manipulation and the vibra* 
wter. The finger manipulation massage only if worth 50c, 
which is the regular charges and with the vibrater in addition 
the charges are 75c, You natually should know for this 
reason what your patron wishises. 

CLEANING THE FACE. 

For a preparation for any massage treatment the skin 
should always first, be thoroughly cleaned by the the applica¬ 
tion of a searching ointment or cream that will remove the 
accumulation of fattie acids and aid in clearing the pores of 
sebaceous matter. In selecting the cream you can pse No. 1 
cleansing cream sold by Madam Hoekenhull’s labitory. yon 
may use fomular No. 1 m making your own cleansing cream. 
The making which is given nuder the heading massage cream. 



First apply a liberal coating of this cream to the face and 
neck aud even the ears, using a piece of absorbant cotton to 
make the application and then work this cream gently into 
the face with the tips of the fingers; work the cream into ev- 
portion of the face and neck, not being too hasty, but using 
the tips of your fingers gent I and firmly. Now apply your 
hot towels the face, steaming them well, but be careful not 
to have so hot as to burn the face; have them as hot as can 
be comfortably handled and while carrying them from wash 



31 


I an to the face keep them folded so that they eau be quickly 
unwrapped when close to the face, in order that the steam of 
i he towels may strike the face before the towel is applied. 
A smail turkish towel is the most desirable to use because it 
will hold more water and steam. 

In applying the towels to the face hold it at the end 
with both hands so that you can draw it about the face, as 
shown in illustration 1. Let the center of the towel rest just 
under the chin and bring the ends up over the face, leaving 
the mid of the nose uncovered, as shown in illustration. Al¬ 
low the first towel which you apply to remain on the face 
while you are sat dating the second and then taking off the 
first, apply the second in the same manner, allowing it to re¬ 
main upon the face while satuating the third Place the 
third towel over the second then satuate the fourth towel and 
removing the third t, *we) f»*om above the second, apply the 
fourth towel above the second, which is still upon the face, 
and allow this fourth towel to lie <lown weil over the neck, 
being careful not to wet the clothing. See that every portion 
of face and neck gets this steam, and you can now remove the 
hot, towel. You may at times use all the towels; after using 
the cUansing cream put on first towel hot as vour patient can 
hear; using the other three one by one, each hotter ami bolter 
then let steam from5 to 20 minutes. 

Next take a piece of absorbant cotton and rub off what¬ 
ever cream that may remain on the face. You are now ready 
for the finger manipulation, the cleansing of the face having 
been completed. 

LESSON 8—FINGER MANIPULATION, PROPER CREAM 

Creams must he applied to the face in giving the finger 
manipulation and in this regard vor, can use No. 1 massage 
cream, if the patient has a dry sensitive, scaldv skin, and if 
the patient has a yellow skin, and i< troubled with frecsles, 
use N(». 2, Freekle Massage (’ream. 

The cream shoul i never be taken from the jar with the 
fingers, but rather with a spatular and then applied to a peice 
of cotton and rubbed upon the face. By observing this rule 

and carefully cleansing and dissinfecting the hands both * be¬ 
fore and after massage, there would be no danger of carrying 
any germs from one customer to another. 


32 


APPYING THK CREAM 


The pressure of finders should be firm, blit gentle,.ami in 
uo case should undue strength be exeried, as the re>ult would 
be to bruise the deeper tissues the motion of the fingers mu<t 
be srnoothe arid liesurelv and absolutely not jerky or hurried. 
In beginning a treatment do not cojaf the face too thickly with 
cream,otherwise the fingers will slip about instead of manipu 
lating the flesh as they should and no real massage will result. 
Apply just enough cream to make I lie work easy and agreea¬ 
ble, and more is needed, apply it from lime to time. 

Immediately after placing a thin eoat of cream over 
the face it should be rubbed into the skin of the' face and 
neck with the tips of the fingers by a, gentle aiid rotary mo¬ 
tion as in illustration No. 2, and when this is done the real 
finger manipulation is begun. 



LESSON 9 -REMOVING FOREHEAD WRINKLES 

The most difficult wrinkles to work out ere those of the 
forehead, due to the fact that they ere quite deep. Most 
people are continually raising the eye brows during conver¬ 
sation and also have he bits of continually squinting on any lit¬ 
tle provocation and as a result the wrinkles upon the fore¬ 
head deepen. 

The tips of the two fingers of both hands are not used in 






33 


the manipulation for forehead wrinkles. Move the finger 
tips of the one hand down towards the brows while the finger 
tips of the other baud move towards the forehead. Practice 
this movement a few minutes and the result will be gratify¬ 
ing. Next place, the four finger tips of each hand upon the 
center of the fotehead and smooth the lines outward to the 
hair, repeat this movement about twenty times—you will also 
find this movement gratifying. 


REMOVING THE WRINKLES AHOUT THE EYES. 

The wrinkles radiating from the eves are common to near 
ly every one and of course are especially pronounced in some 
eases. In manipulating to work out these liues, the flesh 
should be held firm between the thumb and fore-finger of one 
baud, while the two first fingers of the other hand are em¬ 
ployed in rubbing lightly but firmly down across these lines 
and also in a gentU rotary motion along beneath the eyes. 
The rotary motion beneath the eyes is quite particular work 
and should be carried on very gently. This motion should 
be very light when there is a bagginess and puffness beneath 
the eyes and a great deal of cold water must be applied to 
the face at the complet ion of the Massage. 


MASSAGE OF THE NOSE. 

You may use the rotary motion in Massaging the nose. 
This motion must be a continuation of that between the eyes, 
down across the tiny line? which often form on each side of 
the nose and from the bridge to eaeli nostril,the pressure may 
be firm or light according to the results wished. You may 
Massage heavy in case of thick nostrils and light in case of 
thin nostrils. 


MASSAGE OF THE GREEKS, 

Massage from the center of the face, baek, using the flat 
portion of the hands, the deep lines running from the corn¬ 
ers of the mouth to the nose, may be rapidly rubbed out by 
this method. Massage the flesh just below the cheeks by 
drawing the fingers firmly from the chin up along the cheeks 
and also just in front of the ears, using the tip of the fing¬ 
ers of both hands, massaging both sides of the face upwards. 


34 


MASSAGE OP THE THU OAT 

Massaging the throat use a rotary movement, place the 
thumb of the hands one on each side of the neck, wiih ihe 
balls of the fingers resting upon the neeu and throat in a ro¬ 
tary motion upon the neek and throat, you should massage 
much more heavily than upon the fare and it is well to use 
plenty of cream and give special attenth n to the lines caused 
by stiff collars, the rotary movement upon the neck is a wider 
series of circles than that upon the fac^, never rub the lock 
up and down at the sides, to over come thinness of the throat 
press firmly with the fingers against the flesh strokes down 
towards the chin. 



MASSAGE OF THE CHIN. 

In Massaging the chin itself, use the rotary movement. 
The flabby or baggy flesh directly under the chin commonly 
known as the double chin, can be remedied by stroking firm¬ 
ly from the center of this flabby flesh down toward the neck, 
using the fore-finger tips of each hand. 

Having completed the finger Manipulation, in case your 
customer does not wish the Vibrator, then take a peace of 
Absorbant cotton and (dean the face of all Cream, then apply 
five (5) Cold Towels to the face one after the other, separate¬ 
ly. Do not lay them one over the other as in case of hot 
towels. In removing the last of the cold towels wipe the 


35 


f:iee off; then use a dry towel and dry the face thoroughly, 
then apply the Face powder; always using the very best 
powder. 



LESSON 10,—USE OF THE VIBRATOR. 

In case your customer desire the Vibrator used upon the 
face after the huger Manipulation , then do not wipe off the 
cream nor apply t.*»e cold towels and powder until you are 
through using the Vibrator. There are three movements to 
be made upon the face-with the Vi bra'or; The Circular move 
rnent;the Two and Fro movement and the Stroking move¬ 
ments. 


THE CIRCULAR MOVEMENT 

The Circular movement consist of describing very small 
circles as the cup is moved from p'ace to place. These circles 
however should be made small and so slowly as to hr hardly 
perceptible. Remember that the kneading, shaking and vi¬ 
brating movements are being imparted bv vour machine and 
it is not necessary for you 10 try and bring about that effect 
by wiggling the cup. and any attempt on your part to rub the 
skin with the cup would be absolutely unadvisable; the cup 
should not be moved from one place to the other faster than 
1 or 2 inches a second 

Start upon the face at. the point designated by the arrow 
at the top of the forehead and describe the circular move¬ 
ment as in Illustration No. 15 and continue in the to and fro 



3(5 


movement along the cheeks as show*n in Illustration No. 15* 

THE STROKING MOVEMENT. 

The Stroking movement means to stroke the skin from 
one point to the other, but without lifting the cup from the 
skin j for an instance from the nose or corner of the mouth 
to the top of the ear, letting the machine move at the rate of 
two inches a second. Then return to the starting point very 
lightly without any pressuie, whatever, and y«*t with the 
cup from the skin. The purpose of this movement is to fill 
out the cheeks, lessen the wrinkles and work the flesh up* 
wards to the upper cheeks and temper. After you have fin¬ 
ished this treatment, sterilize the rubber cup, rinse in warm 
water and let dry; Tln*se movements must be very slow so 
as to consume about ten minutes to complete entire circle and 
dining the entire treatment, the cup must not be lifted from 
the face an instance as such interruptions are wearing on the 



POWDERING 

nerves. Do not use the Vibrator upon the eyes on account 
of the delicacy of the organs; after a little practice you will 








37 


soon have the entire treatment, mapped out satisfactorially. 
COMPLETING 'Ll I E MASSAGE 


Having now cleansed the fa<*e with the cream and hot 
towels, and having applied the finger manipulation, and fin¬ 
ally the Vibrator, your massage is practically completed. 
Now lake a piece of absorb?,ut cotton and wipe the cream 
from the face, and then apply 5 cold towels, one after anoth¬ 
er, as we explained before, detailing the use of the Vibrator. 
Wipe the face well with last towel and finally with a dry 
towel until the face is well dry. You may, if necessary, use 
a little of No 1.—Beauty Special Cream—very, very little, 
then apply powder. 

LESSON 11—CARE FOR BLACKHEADS AND PIMPLES. 

Blackheads are a disease of the skin and not of the blood, 
as is commonly supposed. Pimples car. be either, and they 
are especially a skin disease when resulting from blackheads 
are allowed to run their course, they invariably result into 
pimples. Blackheads are not allowed to run their course 
Blackheads are not flesh worms, actually alive, as some peo¬ 
ple suppose, but nothing but fat, white plugs, formed bv the 
accumulation of sebaceous secretions that block up the pores 
of the skin, thus preventing the glands from performing 
their functions. The treatment and cure of blackheads de¬ 
pend very largely upon a eonsistant and untiring care of the 
skin and regular persistant treatment. There are really two 
kinds of blackheads, some being fine and tightly embeded in 
the skin and others large and coarse. The treatment for 
each is very little different. Care must be taken in removing 
fine, tightly embeded blackheads for fear of pressing the 
tissue around them. While in the case of coarser blackheads 
this is less likely to occur. Blackheads are extracted by 
means of the Comodore Extraction, an instrument provided 
with a tiny scoop at one end a kneedle point at the other. 
The cost of this instrument is a very small sum. 

REMOVING BLA< KHEADS AND PIMPLES 

First of all. cleanse the face just as instructed in Facial 
Massage; after steaming the face and applying the cream, 
take the Comodore Extractor, using the tiny scoop, niessiiiir 


38 


down at the side of each blackhead and force it out. It may 
seem difficult to remove; puncture the little fold that forms 
over it. using the kneedle point and then press it out with 
the tiny seoop. Do nor. remove too many at a time, as it will 
irritate the flesh After you have removed all of tlm black¬ 
heads, then apply the cream No 1 or No. 2, gently,massaging 
the parts which have been treated. Eat but little meat and 
always aviod pastry, cakes, rich gravies, saiids, liquor, spice, 
or fried foods and sweets. 

Constipation must be done away with. Eat as much 
of fruit as possible to regulate the bowels and induge in 
physical culture exercises. 

This completes Mauicuring and Facial Massage, next 
will follow will be hair dressing. 


ERRATA. 

On Page 5 in referring to two Lessons under this cover— 
it should read MANICURING AND FACIAL MESSAGE, 
instead of Manicuring and Hair Dressing. 











